Complete Restoration & Engine Rebuild for a Supercharged MGB!

 

by

 Ray Wyberski

 

Manufactured by British Leyland U.K. Ltd. on 13 May 1977!

 Located in the United States Territory of American Samoa!

 

1st Place Overall Winner (Best of Show)

2006 American Samoa Inaugural Auto Show!

I am providing this web-site of my Restoration and Engine Rebuild with Technical Data

to MGB Enthusiasts that may have a desire to modify or Supercharge their MGB.

All information provided is exactly the way my MGB is today!

 

What I expected from my MGB!

   To start this project I first needed to decide what I really expected from my

MGB after completion. The most important factor was an engine that was built

for "My Driving Habits". I wanted a more modern MGB with excellent tractability,

used mainly for city driving and cruising, that can keep up with modern vehicles,

will run on 87 octane fuel for fuel economy, no real need to rev over 5000 rpms,

is very dependable, lots of low to mid-range torque and power right where I will

use it the most, and simply an MGB that I can enjoy driving. This makes it a lot

easier to set my goals and stick with them. 

 

   Goals for my Restoration Project!

***Keep my 4 cylinder 1798cc engine making modifications to compliment the

installation of a Moss Supercharger with emphasis placed on low to mid-range

torque and power for increased street performance.

***Change old parts with new/modern parts to enhance reliability, drivability, 

and dependability. 

***Make exterior body modifications together with interior changes for a more

modern and sporty appearance.

***Attention to Detail...Do some Research...Take your Time and Do it Right...

 

Research & Testing!

***Most engine rebuilds are built for high-end horsepower, higher rpm's, bigger

camshafts, higher compression ratio's, higher octane fuel, and the torque curve

being shifted higher from one rpm range to another. This was the opposite of

my needs with emphasis on low to mid-range torque and power, and by moving

the torque curve lower. It meant my approach would surely be different leading

me into researching cylinder heads, porting heads, valves, exhaust systems,

camshafts, headers, ignition systems, advance curves, and forced induction or

supercharging. Research alone was not enough and I did take the time to test

different parts with mechanical changes in order to find the correct combination

of modifications with the supercharger.

 

The best tuned engines are ones that have careful planning

 and the correct combination of subtle modifications!

 

Very important to Understand!

   I would like everyone to understand this engine rebuild with a supercharger

will not be for high-end horsepower. I have no need or desire to attain high rear

wheel or peak horsepower numbers. Street performance engines are all about

drivability, throttle response, and low to mid-range torque and power. Throttle

response is essential as it plays a major role in driving pleasure. We spend the

majority of our time idling and in the mid-range, meaning, we need a broad, flat

torque curve that develops peak power from 1500~4500 rpm. With this engine

torque will be king in the lower rpm range for acceleration and within the power

band it will spend the majority of its time. It will become a Supercharged MGB

that has excellent dependability, and tractability for ease-of-driving.

 

Time to get Started!

    I always liked the rubber bumper MGB's, but also wondered how to make it

look more modern. This becomes what they call a "Restomod" and in this case

to take a classic car, update functional components with modern technology

while not modifying the appearance so much that it no longer resembles the

classic car you started with. Looking at the early MGB and MG-RV8 I decided on

the following changes:

 

   This project started in May 2005 by completely stripping everything from my

MGB before taking it to a body/paint shop for body modifications, sandblasting

and painting. I always disliked the seams/beads and had them all removed and

body soldered. The top rear quarter panels were rounded to match the early

type rear tail light assembly. The side molding strips were removed and holes

welded. The two jacking points underneath the rocker panels were removed. The

hole for the antenna was covered up with sheet metal and welded. I liked the

smooth flow look of the early MGB without the side lamps and removed all 4 of

them. The side mirrors needed a sportier look and installed 1992 Miata power

side mirrors, the Crack of Doom was reinforced. I now felt my MGB had a more

modern and sporty appearance.

 

   With body modifications completed it was time to sandblast the entire car.

Once sandblasted primer was sprayed immediately, and than the long job of

sanding. I wanted a show room quality paint job and body preparation was the

key. DuPont Chroma Premier (Base and Clear Coat) was used, 5 coats of base, 3

coats of clear coat. It was than wet sanded, buffed and polished.

 

All New Parts!

   With an empty body shell I installed "ALL" new parts and any modern parts

that I could find. A complete Nuts and Bolts restoration with modifications!

 

Modern Options added to my MGB!

 

Power Windows (Entire Window Mechanism),	Power Mirrors w/electric switch (1992 Miata)
Power Amplified Hidden Dash Antenna	Modern Circuit Fuse Block  (Blade Type)
Kenwood Head Unit	Rear Tubular Shock Conversion
Boston Acoustics Pro60 6.5 Component Speakers	Hood and Trunk Telescopic Gas Strut Lifts
Special Tuning Front Air Dam	Carter P60504 In-Line Fuel Pump
Moss Supercharger with SU HIF 44 Carburetor	Supercharger Heat Shield
5 Speed Ford Sierra T-9 Transmission with Close Ratio Gears	Hall Effect Sender Speedometer Cable
K & N E-2400 Air Filter with Velocity Stack	Deluxe Biscuit Interior Carpet
VDO Gauges: Speedometer, Tachometer, Oil, Water,	Biscuit Molded Trunk Set
VDO Gauges: Fuel, Clock, Volt Meter, Vacuum/Boost	Cobalt Wires - NGK-6ES Spark Plugs
Peco Header (Jet Hot Coating)	Peco Big Bore 2" Exhaust System
High Flow Triple Chrome T-304 Stainless Steel Exhaust Tip	"SC" Supercharged Chrome Emblem
Mini-Lite Style Alloy wheels 15" x 5.5 w/195/65R15 tires	MGB V8 Brake pads with new Calipers
MGB Billet Pedal Covers: Clutch-Brake-Accelerator Pedals	"Roadster" Billet Door Sill Plates
"Roadster" Chrome & Black Emblem	Rosewood 6 piece Dash Trim Kit,
Long Lasting ABS Under Dash Liners and Rad-Lights	ABS Engine Air Scoop/Duct Panel
Stainless Steel Front & Rear License Plate Frames	Stainless Steel Front Grill
British Motor Heritage Vented/Baffled 13 Gallon Gas Tank	Permanently Mounted Battery Charger
Tripod Headlamps Halogen with Heavy Duty Relay Harness	96 amp GM/Delco CS-130 Alternator
14 " 10 Blade Spal Electric Cooling Fan/Adjustable Thermostat	High Torque Gear Reduction Starter
Original 41427 45D4 Distributor w/Custom Curve	Pertronix LU-143 Electronic Ignition (45D)
MSD-6A Electronic Ignition Control	Flamethrower II .6 Ohm Epoxy Coil
RV8 Moto-Lita 14" Eagle Leather Rim Steering Wheel	Black Leather Shift-boot
Mohair Black Convertible Top MGRV8 Style	Walnut & Chrome Shift Knob

 

Engine Choice!

   With the exterior completed it was time to make an engine decision. Do I

install a V-6 / V-8 engine, or add a Moss Supercharger? I felt nothing would be

more interesting than lifting the hood (bonnet) and seeing an Original 4 cylinder

1798cc MGB engine with a Supercharger. Having 80k on the engine it was now a

good time to rebuild it, having a fresh engine for the Supercharger.

 

New Engine Rebuild Parts!

Moss Eaton M45 Supercharger

12H4736 Port & Polished Cylinder Head

88G303 Steel Billet Camshaft

Payen Head and Lower Gasket Sets

ARP Performance Fasteners (Head-Rod Bolts-Main Cap Studs)

Tuftrided Rocker Shaft

Main Bearing Set

Oil Pump, Oil Pressure Relief Valve and Spring

Duplex Timing Chain, Crankshaft Gear, Camshaft Gear, Timing Chain Tensioner

16.2cc LC Hepolite Pistons with Rings and Pins

Push Rods with APT Lifter Set

Camshaft Bearings, Rear Main Seal, Rod Bearing Set, Thrust Wash Set

High Performance Manifold Gasket

 

Supercharger!

   I installed the Moss Supercharger for the later 1975-1980 MGB. It uses the

Eaton M45 positive root-type supercharger that displaces 45cu ins/rev or 750cc

with a normal operating limit of 14,000 rpm. It's purpose is simply to increase

air pressure and density in the intake manifold by pumping more air into the

engine. The concentrated charge of air provided by the supercharger results in a

more powerful combustion stroke in the engine's cylinder, resulting in improved

performance by providing more torque and horsepower, at lower engine rpm's,

and yields instant throttle response. The Eaton supercharger demonstrates a

remarkably flat torque curve, meaning that power to the wheels is demonstrable

throughout the power range.

 

   A supercharger than is essentially an air pump, it allows our small engine to

take in a similar volume of air and fuel as a larger engine. The only reason a

larger engine makes more power is that it converts a larger volume of air and

fuel into energy. A supercharger achieves the same results, but only when under

load or full throttle, not during normal driving or cruising.

 

   Boost is the amount of additional pressure created by the supercharger. So if

the supercharger makes 7 psi of boost, the inlet charge is atmospheric pressure

(14.7 psi) +7 psi for a total of 21.7 psi. Most normally aspirated engines barely

achieve 70% volumetric efficiency.

 

   With supercharging, even when the boost gauge reads "0" the engine is still

achieving 100% cylinder filling. The difference in drivability must be experienced

both on and off boost. This is why when driving a supercharged MGB you really

are not on boost unless you really need it or simply playing around.

 

   When looking at buying a supercharger, don’t make the mistake of being

concerned only with peak horsepower numbers. High peak horsepower numbers,

although very impressive, is not as important as the area under the power curve

which ultimately determines drivability. People drive so infrequently at the peak

power range, that it is pretty much an insignificant number. The major concerns

should be dependability and tractability. With higher peak horsepower, comes

higher rpm's, and this is what adds more stress on the engine.

Moss Eaton M45 Supercharger!

Note: The M45 was discontinued in 2008 and replaced with the MP45 that has an internal bypass,

and larger plenum. It has a new manifold design that is moved forward along with the supercharger,

this allows a little more room for a slightly larger air filter, everything else is similar but different.

 

Camshafts!

   The later 1975-1980 North American (NA) Rubber Bumper (RB) MGB's had

Camshaft #1156 installed. I replaced it with the earlier 1965-1974 Camshaft

#88G303 with duplex timing chain and camshaft sprocket. The 18G series and

early 18V engines used this camshaft.

 

   The duplex timing chain/sprocket was used on 1965-1971 MGB's, and the

single row timing chain/sprocket on 1972-1980 MGB's. The only difference in the

two sprockets is that the duplex sprocket is in fact 4 degrees retarded from the

single row camshaft sprocket. The keyway on the sprockets made this change.

 

   There are two easy ways to change the characteristics of your camshaft.

Advancing moves the power band down, more low-end torque. Retarding moves

the power band up a few hundred rpm, more high-end power. The second way is

to change the valve lash. Tightening the valve lash will increase top end power

while loosening will increase bottom end power. 

 

Advancing Cam Timing! Begins intake event sooner Opens intake valve sooner Builds more low-end torque Decreases piston-to-intake-valve clearance Increases piston-to-exhaust-valve clearance Loosen Valve Lash! Increases Bottom End Power

Retarding Cam Timing! Delays intake event Opens intake valve later Builds more high-end power Increases piston-to-intake-valve clearance Decreases piston-to-exhaust-valve clearance Tighten Valve Lash! Increases Top End Power

 

   Why is cam timing so important? Because it affects engine performance. For

the engine to run its best, it needs accurate cam timing. As a rule for the MGB,

advancing cam timing from the original ground centerline ("Straight Up" 107.5°)

3 to 4 degrees helps low-speed torque and throttle response with little sacrifice

in higher rpm power. Retarding the cam improves performance at high rpm at

the expense of low speed torque which is not what you want in a stock or street

performance engine.

 

   Staying with my goals in lowering the torque curve and increasing throttle

response I set camshaft timing at 104° ATDC degrees because both the earlier

inlet and exhaust opening events will help the supercharger breathe more air

into and out of the engine which is recommended for increased low rpm and

torque. Opening the intake valve sooner and having a greater amount of valve

opening at TDC, the intake pressure can purge the residual exhaust from the

combustion chamber, thus providing better filling of the cylinders. 

 

Note: I tested camshaft timing at 110 degrees, 106 degrees, and 104 degrees with a G-Tech Pro

meter. Results showed from the torque and horsepower figures that the best street performance

for my Supercharged MGB was when the camshaft was timed at 104 degrees.

 

 There is enough information on camshafts and it simply comes down to every

increase in camshaft duration moves the engine's power band higher on the rpm

range. Dyno results have shown the standard 88G303 camshaft makes excellent

torque and horsepower with the Supercharger. This is the only camshaft I would

use for keeping low to mid-range torque & power, and maintain tractability.

 

Camshaft Specifications from the 107.5° Centerline!

 

MGB #88G303 Early Cam with Duplex Timing Chain and Sprocket!

Intake: 22 / 50     Exhaust: 57 / 15

Duration: 252°  Overlap: 37°  Intake: 104°  Exhaust: 111°  LSA: 107.5°

This is the camshaft timing I used for Lower Rpm and Torque!

This camshaft was advanced at 3.5° BTDC

Camshaft Specifications at 104° ATDC! This is what I used!

MGB Camshaft #88G303 Cam Duration & Lift Specification for 18V Engines!

Intake: 20 / 52     Exhaust: 55 / 17

Duration: 252°  Overlap: 37°  Intake: 106°  Exhaust: 109°  LSA: 107.5°

18V engines, 106°, Four degrees advanced from 18G engines!

This camshaft was advanced at 1.5° BTDC

Early 18V Camshaft Specifications! Single Timing Chain & Sprocket! 

MGB Camshaft #88G303 Cam Duration & Lift Specifications for 18G Engines!

Intake: 16 / 56     Exhaust: 51 / 21

Duration: 252°  Overlap: 37°  Intake: 110°  Exhaust: 105°  LSA: 107.5°

18G engines, 110°, Four degrees retarded from early 18V engines!

This camshaft was retarded at 2.5° ATDC

18G Series Camshaft Specifications! Duplex Timing Chain & Sprocket!

 

Transmission & Gear Ratio's!

   With a Supercharger I surely needed a better transmission and installed the

Ford Sierra T-9 Five Speed Transmission conversion kit. It is a lighter yet robust

gearbox well capable of handling higher more torque than the standard gearbox,

very quiet and smooth, with a tight shifting gear radius.

MGB Ford Sierra T-9 Five Speed Conversion Kit!

(English Ford Sierra/Merkur XR4Ti T9 Transmission)

 

Gear Ratio:  MGB - Ford T-9 - Ford T-9 Close Ratio	MGB  62-67	MGB  68-74	MGB  75-76	MGB   77-80	Ford T-9 Standard	Ford T-9 Close Ratio
1st Gear	3.64	3.44	3.03	3.33	3.65	3.36
2nd Gear	2.21	2.16	2.16	2.16	1.97	1.81
3rd Gear	1.37	1.38	1.38	1.38	1.37	1.26
4th Gear	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00
5th Gear / OD		.82	.82	.82	.82	.825

Gear Ratio's for the MGB!

 

   When it came to gear ratios I felt the T-9 Close Ratio Gears was a much

better choice for my supercharged MGB. A close-ratio transmission means there

is relatively little difference between the gear ratios and the gears. This gear

ratio was used in 2.8L V6 engines as it's Standard Gear Ratio. With a Higher

Ratio Gear (Numerically Lower), meaning there is less acceleration and requires

more torque to accelerate. The Supercharger adds the extra torque, accelerating

extremely well with the gear ratios. In the chart below, using a Higher Ratio

gear increases the attainability of higher speeds in 2nd and 3rd gears, giving

greater top speed, lessens wear on the engine, and improves fuel economy.

 

Approximate Speed/RPM Table!

 

Tire Size: 195/65R15 Rims: 5.5"

Tire Diameter: 24.98 inches

MGB Bolt Pattern: 4 x 4.5 or 4 x 114.3mm!

Final Drive Ratio: 3.909

Ford T-9 Close Ratio   compared to  MGB 68-74:

Ford T-9 Close Ratio	1st 3.36	2nd 1.81	3rd 1.26	4th 1.00	5th 0.825	MGB 68-74	1st 3.44	2nd 2.16	3rd 1.38	4th 1.00	0D 0.82
0        rpm	0	0	0	0	0	0        rpm	0	0	0	0	0
500    rpm	3	5	8	10	12	500    rpm	3	4	7	10	12
1000  rpm	6	11	15	19	23	1000  rpm	6	9	14	19	23
1500  rpm	8	16	23	29	35	1500  rpm	8	13	21	29	35
2000  rpm	11	21	30	38	46	2000  rpm	11	18	28	38	46
2500  rpm	14	26	38	48	58	2500  rpm	14	22	34	48	58
3000  rpm	17	32	45	57	70	3000  rpm	17	26	41	57	70
3500  rpm	20	37	53	67	81	3500  rpm	19	31	48	67	81
4000  rpm	23	42	60	77	93	4000  rpm	22	35	55	76	93
4500  rpm	25	47	68	86	104	4500  rpm	25	40	62	86	104
5000  rpm	28	53	75	95	116	5000  rpm	28	44	69	95	116
5500 Redline RPM	31	58	83	105	128	5500  rpm	30	48	76	105	128
5700 0-60 mph	32	60	86	108	------
6000 Safe Max RPM	34	63	91	114	------	6000  rpm	33	53	83	114	-----
6200 Valve Float	35	65	94	118	------	6200  rpm	34	55	85	118	-----

Speed Ratio Calculator with Valve Float at 6200 rpm w/Single Springs!

Note: Look closely at 2nd & 3rd gears. The T-9 close ratio gears achieves higher speeds at lower

rpm's. In 2nd gear at 5500 rpm's the T-9 has an extra 10 mph. Confirmed by G-Tech results, the

T-9 close ratio gears can achieve 60 mph in 2nd gear with no problem.

 

Technical Data Ford T-9 5 Speed

The 5 speed Ford Sierra propeller shaft is manufactured to specification:

Torque rating (Short Duration): 570Nm Maximum (422 lb.f.ft)

RPM rating of propeller: 7000 rpm Maximum

This corresponds to an engine speed of 5740 rpm in 5th gear (ratio .82:1)

or an engine speed of 7000 rpm in 4th gear. (ratio 1:1)

Length: 30 1/2"  Speedo Output: 18"-24"  Center of lever opening: 28 3/4"

Underside mounting point: 21"  Weight: 86 pounds

Oil: Castrol SAE 75w90 Full-Synthetic Oil

Note: Ford specified Standard oil grade SAE 75w90 Semi-Synthetic gear oil for 5 speed gear boxes

while it proved faultless for cold engagement there was some tendency to baulk at high rpm when

the gearbox was hot. Using Castrol SAE 75w90 Full-Synthetic has proven an admirable performer for

normal/higher rpm's use and found shifting very easy when the transmission is hot.

Note: I used a VDO Speedometer Gauge. A Hall Effect Sensor (above photo) must be attached to

the speedometer cable in order for the gauge to work properly. I sent the cable that came with

the 5 speed to Speedometer Service Company who then cut the cable and installed the Hall Effect

Sensor to the end of the cable. Total length of the cable after completion was 18 inches.

 

Cylinder Heads!

   The 18V RB MGB had cylinder heads fitted with smaller inlet valves back to

the 1.5625 inch (39.8mm) diameter of the early 18G series 1962-1971. From

1972-1974 the 18V inlet valves were enlarged to 1.625 inch (41.3mm). With

bigger inlet valves it would be reasonable to expect more power but this turns

out not to be the case. Both the smaller valve 18G engines and the big valve

18V engines produced the same torque and horsepower! The larger 1.62 valves

provided more high end power while the smaller 1.56 valves provided more low

to mid-range torque and power.

 

Cylinder Head Porting and Horsepower!

   There are many opinions on which cylinder head is better and in reality any

cylinder head can be ported to work with a supercharger, it all depends what

you want for engine performance. I wanted a cylinder head that complimented

the Supercharger and my driving habits by having low to mid-range torque and

power, this is where we spend most of our time driving.

 

   A Port and Polished (P&P) cylinder head with 3 angle valves/seats will usually

gain anywhere from 10-15 HP with a Supercharger. An additional benefit of

porting is it clearly reduces detonation, which allows you to run either more

ignition advance, boost, or both. You should notice a small reduction in boost,

and this is normal. You are essentially making the same horsepower with lower

boost because the cylinder head is flowing better, added performance.

 

"12H4736" Cylinder Head!

   The MGB engine used five basic cylinder head designs. I wanted a cylinder

head that would be better for porting and picked the fourth design which was a

slightly modified version of the 12H4736 cylinder head first introduced on the

Austin/Morris Marina, used on post 1974 UK/European market MGB engines, and

as a replacement cylinder in the U.S. market.

 

   The US Market 12H4736 cylinder head is a "lead-free" cylinder head and was

induction hardened to withstand higher combustion temperatures of lead-free

fuel. This complex process applied only to the US (NA) market cylinder heads:

(NA heads post December 1974 were lead free tolerant and did have induction hardened valve seats. The process involved 1% tin being added to the molten iron before casting. This led to an issue where the iron touched the mould suffered a changed molecular structure and so additional depth of material was used in modified moulds which was then machined off before the induction hardening process was applied to just the valve seat area, all valve seats.)

It had an improved intake port design that produced a 4% increase in flow at

maximum valve lift. It used 1.5625" inlet valves and 1.343" exhaust valves with

a more efficient "Open" Kidney-Shaped combustion chambers featuring a larger

squish area as well as reduced promontory between the valves, chamber height

of .375" with a volume of 39cc. The rear rocker shaft pedestal had an offset oil

feed in order to accommodate the redesigned cooling passages that assisted in

preventing overheating of the rear cylinder. These larger coolant ports provided

a greater service area to assist in dealing with higher combustion temperatures

that resulted in efforts to reduce emissions. It has air injection ports and water

choke outlet at the rear of the cylinder head. When compared to all other MGB

cylinder heads the outer shaping was revised having a much smoother looking

appearance. The Patent Number "565394" located by the thermostat housing

was removed and marked inside the cylinder head. I felt this cylinder head had

that little extra and would work extremely well with the Supercharger.

 

Work done on the 12H4736 Cylinder Head!

* Cleaned and glass-bead blasted!

* Magnafluxed & Pressure Tested!

* Ported & Polished!

* 3 angle Valves and Seats!

* Manganese-Bronze Inlet & Exhaust guides!

* Guides Reamed and Honed!

* Hardened, Lead-Free Exhaust Seat Inserts!

* New 1.56" inlet valves & 1.343" Stellite exhaust valves!

* Removed Air Injector Tubes!

* Air Injection Plugs: 7/16"-20-3/4" Bolts Cut Off Flush!

* Deck surface milled .020" true!

* New Single Springs installed!

* Fel-Pro SS70373 Valve Stem Seals  (71-74 Chevrolet)

* New Inlet Manifold Studs with Brass Nuts!

* High Performance Manifold Gasket!

* Gloss Black Color!

 

Cylinder Head Depth Height!

   My cylinder head was milled .020" with a depth height of 3.105" (3 7/64")

from the original 3.125" (3 8/64") depth height. (Cylinder Head Thickness)

   

Deck Height!

   Deck Height with standard pistons measured .030" from the flat top of the

piston and .034" going down from the flat top edge into the bore. I decided to

use the middle measurement of .032" for my deck height.

 

Payen Head  Gasket  .043"   Compressed!

   I used the Payen Head Gasket set CK665 and measured it brand new. The

steel bore rings measured 1.2mm or .04724", the black resin area measured

1.1mm or .043307". The only area that compresses is the bore rings from .047"

down to .043" matching the black resin area of the gasket. I reused this gasket

3 times and each time measured .043" compressed.

Payen Head Gasket comes in different sets!

CK663, CK664 and CK665 all using the AK660 head gasket.

 

Squish or Quench Area!

   With a supercharged engine you may find that having tight squish or quench

characteristics can work against you by helping to speed up the flame travel

when what you are needing is to slow it down. The supercharger itself provides

a lot of mixture turbulence, it homogenizes the mix prior to induction, even

when cruising along not providing much pressure, this effect offsets the need

for tight squish as needed with a "normally aspirated" engine. Once you get rid

of all squish or quench characteristics is when you can enjoy being able to add

more boost safely.

 

   I have a squish area of .075" (Head Gasket + Deck Height) and with 16.2cc

dished pistons this pretty much eliminated my squish or quench characteristics.

I use a high boost pulley with 7 psi of boost, 32° timing advance, 8.1:1 CR, do

not need any boost controller device, and still able to use 87 octane fuel with

absolutely no hint of detonation. Very dependable!

 

Combustion Chambers!

    My combustion chambers measured in at 36.8cc's average per 4 chambers.

 

Compression Ratio!

 With the information listed above I could now check the Compression Ratio.

I have a 8.1:1 compression ratio! Slightly higher but still Ok!

 

Supercharger Compression Ratio!

   The safest compression ratio to use with a supercharger is 8.0:1. Raising your

compression ratio one point (8:1 to 9:1) is equivalent to 2 psi of boost.

 

Compression Results!

Cranking compression check reveals:

 #1=150, #2=150, #3=150, #4=149

(Standard compression ratio is 130 for 8.0:1)

 

Single Springs!

   I decided that Single Springs was sufficient for the cylinder head. They are

suitable for cams up to 400 thou valve lift, allowing 6200 rpm before valve

float/crash. Double springs are helpful at higher rpm's, but on the street they

just add drag and wear to the camshaft. With the supercharger I really have no

need to go over 5000 rpm's.

 

Valve Clearances!

   Normal Book Valve Clearance is .015" Cold Inlet & Exhaust for the early 18G

Series cylinder head with 1.56" inlet valves and 88G303 camshaft. If you think

about this for a moment, metal expands when hot causing valve clearances to

close approximately .002" from the .015 cold setting that now corresponds with

the .013" Hot setting that is also used. Either way of setting valve clearances

.013" hot or .015" cold still gives you approximately the same clearances.

 

*** Mr. Peter Burguess informed me of a engine tweak he uses. Since I no

longer have a standard engine, standard settings do not necessary apply. Set

the inlet tappets .012" Hot, with exhaust tappets at .015" Hot, and the spark

plug gap to .035". This gives an even distribution of BHP throughout the rev

range. Also, because camshafts are not perfectly phased follow the tappet

clearance as you rotate the engine and set the clearance to the loosest position

as this helps achieve the BHP in your engine.

 

   Valve Clearance makes a small difference to valve timing and overlap. They

affect the opening and closing speeds of the valves. If the lash is too loose,

you will not get the full benefit of the opening and closing ramp profile of the

cam lobe. This means the valve will tend to slam open and shut more than if

the valve lash were tighter. It can cause poor closing conditions where the valve

bounces off the seat which can happen at any rpm, but usually happens at

higher rpm's. If the valve lash is to tight it will hold the exhaust valve off the

seat causing the valves to get hot and increase the chances of detonation.

 

Adjusting Valve Clearances!

   You can adjust your valves by adjusting 2 valves at one time by cranking the

engine to move the valves. Simply leave the spark plugs in, or take them out,

and take the plug wire off the coil. Disconnect the White & Brown wire from the

ignition relay and by attaching a wire to it, slightly touch the bottom live fuse in

the fuse box or any power source that is live momentarily. The slight engine

crank will move the valves each time and you can adjust your valve clearance.

 

Adjust Valves 1 & 3 when 8 & 6 are Fully Open

Adjust Valves 5 & 2 when 4 & 7 are Fully Open

Adjust Valves 8 & 6 when 1 & 3 are Fully Open

Adjust Valves 7 & 4 when 2 & 5 are Fully Open

Fully Open means Valve is Down or Depressed! Than You Can Adjust Valves!

#1 Exhaust, #2 Intake, #3 Intake, #4 Exhaust, #5 Exhaust, #6 Intake, #7 Intake, #8 Exhaust

 

   You can also adjust each individual valve separately using the "Rule of Nine".

 

Rule of Nine!

Add the 2 Valves and they Equal 9!

Adjust Valve #1 when Valve #8 is Fully Open!

Adjust Valve #3 when Valve #6 is Fully Open!

Adjust Valve #5 when Valve #4 is Fully Open!

Adjust Valve #2 when Valve #7 is Fully Open!

Adjust Valve #8 when Valve #1 is Fully Open!

Adjust Valve #6 when Valve #3 is Fully Open!

Adjust Valve #4 when Valve #5 is Fully Open!

Adjust Valve #7 when Valve #2 is Fully Open!

 

Fine Tuning Valve Lash!

   You can use both methods listed above to find the valves to adjust. To fine

tune the valve lash you must rotate the engine to find the point where each

valve has the widest clearance and than adjust it. Takes a little more time, but

you will have a very fine tuned engine.

 

The Right Curve!

   Next was getting the right distributor and curve to have the timing spot on.

We all know timing is everything and you can actually lose 3-5 horsepower or

more if your timing is off a couple degrees. I had an Original Lucas 45D 41427

"E" distributor that was rebuilt with a custom curve. Superchargers like a lot of

initial advance up-front with a curve that ends at from 2600-3000 rpm. This

custom curve worked extremely well helping that "Seat of Your Pants" feeling.

Above is my Original Lucas Distributor 41427 "E" 45D4  1384

 

Engine - 18G, GA, GB, GD, GG

Lucas Distributor -45D4- 41427 "E"

This Distributor is used to Exchange or Replace:

Lucas #'s  40897 - 41155 - 41220 - 41288 - 41290 - 41264 - 41339

High Compression (HC) 1962-1971 Original Specifications Curve Data!

Original Curve for the 45D4 "41427"		Degrees	RPM
Dwell		51+-5
Static		+10
Strobe		Idle Setting        +14	600
Centrifugal		+4	600
		6	700
		9	900
		15	1600
		20	2200
Vacuum  -  Ported    5-13-10° Starts 5 hg in    Max 13 hg in    10°distributor (20°crank)

Below is my Custom Curve Specification Sheet I used with the Supercharger!

Custom "Supercharger" Curve		Degrees			RPM
Dwell		51+-5
Static		+10
Strobe		Idle Setting        +20			950
Centrifugal		5	600	8	800
		+10	950	11	1000
		13	1200	14	1400
		15	1600	16	1800
		17	2000	18	2200
		20	2400	21	2600
		21.5	2800	22	3000
Vacuum  -  Manifold    5-13-10° Starts 5 hg in    Max 13 hg in    10°distributor (20°crank) 22° Mechanical Advance  +10° Static Timing  = 32° Total Advance

Notice this custom curve is basically "All In by 2600 Rpm" and only going up 1° to 3000rpm. 

(Ray's curve is about perfect for most SC cars. Carl H.)

 

Note: The Standard Spark Plugs are NGK-BPR7ES. These colder plugs caused plug fouling and a

slight hesitation. I installed one step hotter NGK-BPR6ES Stock Plugs (Equivalent to Champion

RN9YC), this eliminated the hesitation and provided a Normal Plug Appearance with a light tan

insulator nose.

 

MSD-6A  Ignition Control!  

 

   The MSD is a great performance upgrade that can be added to MGB's. Benefits

such as easy starting, steady smooth idle, reduced plug fouling, quicker throttle

response, and increased fuel economy can be expected. The MSD-6A produces a

sequence of powerful multiple sparks for every firing of the spark plug ensuring

complete combustion of the fuel mixture resulting in improved performance and

power.

 

   MSD-6A features a capacitive discharge ignition design. The majority of stock

ignition systems are inductive ignitions, the coil must store and step up the

voltage to maximum strength in between each firing. At higher rpm, since there

is less time to charge the coil to full capacity, the voltage falls short of reaching

maximum energy which results in a loss of power or top end miss.

 

   The MSD-6A ignition features a capacitor which is quickly charged (within one

millisecond) with 460-480 volts and stores it until the ignition is triggered. With

the Captive Discharge design, the voltage sent to the coil is always at full

power even at high rpm. 

 

   The MSD-6A produces full power multiple sparks (3 sparks) for each firing of a

plug. The number of multiple sparks that occur decreases as rpm increases,

however the spark series always last for 20° of crankshaft rotation. Above 3,000

rpm there is simply not enough "time" to fire the spark plug more than once, so

there is only one powerful spark.

 

   The MSD 6A unit installs between the distributor and the coil. The input to

the MSD is isolated electronically from the distributor output, whether that be

points or electronic, so there is virtually no load on the distributor, regardless of

the output voltage of the coil and depending on the coil you use.

 

   I used the super low resistance 0.6 ohm Pertronix Flamethrower II 45,000

volt Epoxy 0.6 ohm coil mounted upright. Originally engineered for use with the

Ignitor II electronic ignition it works extremely well with the MSD-6A. 

 

   My MGB has a VDO tachometer and I can state there is "No" need for the MSD

tachometer adapter 8910. The MSD-6A with a Pertronix Ignitor LU-143, 45D4

Distributor, and Flamethrower II Epoxy 0.6 ohm coil works flawlessly.

 

Manifold Vacuum!

   I changed ported vacuum to manifold vacuum. Manifold vacuum means the

port will be drawing vacuum below the throttle blades. A good running MGB

engine should have a measured vacuum at idle between 18-20 in/hg. This will

give you a lot of advance at idle, but as load increases (vacuum drops) you will

take timing away. It is excellent for fast burning fuels offered today as well as

having better idle quality.

 

   Ported vacuum means the port is drawing vacuum "above" the throttle blades

in the carburetor. This means that as RPM increases, vacuum increases and in

turn, vacuum advance increases.

 

My Vacuum is 20 in/hg at 950 RPM Idle!

 

180 Degree Thermostat!

   I wanted to know what would be the best operating temperature for my MGB

with a Supercharger. A thermostat has one simple function and that is to stop

engine coolant from flowing below a certain temperature, and to allow it to flow

at or above a certain temperature.

 

    We have to change our thought from a "Normally Aspirated" MGB to a

supercharged MGB. Boost pressures creates heat, lots of it. Do everything you

can to eliminate heat and reduce the chances of detonation. You should have

an engine temperature that is a consistent 180°~190°. For most supercharged

installations a 180° thermostat is recommended and used the most.

 

   I also added a blanking sleeve with the 180° thermostat. It was not originally

designed to be used with the thermostat, but it does work well with one to shut

off that bypass port and help restore the original coolant flow when your engine

is at operating temperature.

Blanking Sleeve!

   Cooler engine temperatures also help decrease the spontaneous combustion

of the unburned air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber other wise known

as knocking, pinging, or detonation. By keeping the pistons, cylinder head and

walls, cooler, helps to reduce or eliminate hot spots, which could prematurely

ignite the fuel causing pinging and detonation. A minimum water temperature of

180° is required for the cylinders to allow fully homogenized Air/Fuel mixture to

combust efficiently.

 

   If you want the optimum engine temperature for increased engine longevity,

supercharger efficiency, and performance, use a 180° thermostat. Heat isn't

power: Air x Fuel x Ignition = Power. The colder the air the more dense the

oxygen molecules, the more power per cubic foot. With a cool intake charge,

and a cool cylinder head (combustion chamber/quench area) you can bring in a

lot more timing lead and more thoroughly burn the fuel mixture and convert that

into energy pushing the piston down vs. spewing it out the radiator or exhaust.

Cool cylinder heads and a cool air charge is the key to making even more power

with a Supercharger.

 

Exhaust System!

   A good exhaust system will make a huge difference to the breathing of your

engine and especially with a Supercharger that is pushing more air in and out

of the engine. I used a Peco Header that was Jet Hot coated and matched up

with a Peco Big Bore (2") Free Flow Exhaust System.    

Peco Complete Exhaust System!

 

Peco Header!

   The MGB is unique having three exhaust ports, with the Peco header each

side port has it's own tube and the center port being shared by two cylinders

uses a Long Center Branch (LCB) tube which is larger than the two side tubes.

Engines producing more torque and Red Line at 5,500 rpm's need a longer tube

length of 36". Longer tubes pull the torque down to a lower RPM range. Shorter

tubes moves the power band up into a higher rpm range. This is what is meant

by the term "Tuned Length". The tube length is "Tuned" to make the engine

operate at a desired rpm range. This header typically boost mid-range power by

approximately 5 hp at the wheels.

 

Jet Hot Extreme Sterling!

   Jet Hot Extreme Sterling is very similar in appearance to Sterling but not quite

as bright. It will hold its shine 200ºF higher and can actually withstand temps

up to 1,700ºF. This amazing finish normally cuts down about 400ºF on the skin

temperature of pipes. This coating is great for supercharged or turbocharged 

applications. Extreme Sterling will normally boost power when applied to

headers for two reasons. First, the coating promotes denser, more potent

fuel/air charges by insulating the engine bay from exhaust heat. At the same

time, it accelerates the pulsed-vacuum effect on “Tuned” headers, resulting in

more effective scavenging of cylinders. The increased velocity of exhaust gases

produced by higher exit inertia not only clears each cylinder more quickly; it also

draws in the next fuel/air charge more efficiently.

 

   The optimum situation occurs with our four cylinder engine because of it's

firing cycle. Every 180 degree of crankshaft rotation there is one exhaust pulse

entering the collector. This is ideal timing because, as one pulse exits the

collector, the next exhaust valve is opening and the vacuum created in the

system pulls the exhaust from the cylinder. In this ideal 180 degree cycling the

collector outlet diameter only needs to be 20% larger than the primary tube

diameter. A good example is the Peco Header with 1 3/4" primary tubes going

into a 2" collector outlet diameter. The rule of thumb here is two tube sizes.  

This keeps the velocity fast to increase scavenging, especially at lower rpm's.

 

My Jet Hot Extreme Sterling Header!

 

Heat Shield!

   Heat robs horsepower, this means reducing the operating temperature of the

Supercharger unit is very important. This heat shield has a high tech aluminized

radiant barrier material to lower temperature, increases supercharger efficiency,

also isolates the air filter from the hot exhaust temperatures providing cooler

air around the air filter. The reduced heat around the carburetor allows you to

adjust the fuel mixture screw without burning your fingers. It has a 12° drop at

60-70 mph driving temperature, and a 30° drop in temperature after slowing

down from freeway speeds using a stock header.

Supercharger Heat Shield!

 

Exhaust Tip!

   I wanted an exhaust tip that would fit right over the 2" Peco exhaust pipe

and found a 2" ID High Flow exhaust tip that fits perfectly with no welding or

screw mounting. I cut approximately 4" off the existing pipe, sprayed some

WD-40 and with a rubber hammer tapped it on making a very tight seal.

 

   This High Flow exhaust tip features a high quality stainless steel cone,

has modified enlarged louvered openings which reduces back pressure while

providing Higher Flow for better performance.

 

    I did try different tips in hopes of reducing the slightly louder Peco exhaust

note. With this tip installed I had a nice Sporty MGB exhaust note.

Hi Flow Louvered Exhaust Tip!

 

SU-HIF 44 Carburetor!

   The 1.75-inch SU HIF6/44 is the carburetor that comes with the Supercharger

and has been flow tested at 228 cfm for a power potential of 151 hp. Example:

The early Dual 1.5-inch SU carburetor each flow at 132 cfm, the pair at 264 cfm.

Lets look at the chart below to see how this works.

 

RPM	CFM Needed
1000	27.1
2000	54.1
3000	81.2
4000	108.2
5000	135.3
6000	162.3
7000	189.4
8000	216.4
9000	243.5
10,000	270.5

   With Dual 1.5-inch SU carburetors the MGB will not run out of carburetor until

it is well over 9,000 rpm's. The Supercharger with the 1.75-inch SU carburetor

will not run out of carburetor until it is over 8,000 rpm's. As you can clearly see

that unless your MGB revs higher than 8,000 rpm than the single 1.75-inch SU

HIF-44 carburetor used on the Supercharger is more than enough to do the job

it was intended to do.

 

Custom "Air Filter" Assembly!

   The OEM air filter is slightly too small causing restricted air flow and a rich

mixture above 4000 rpm. Most supercharger installations end up changing the

OEM BCA needle to a BBC needle, which is the next leaner needle needing to

be sanded down in stages. Instead of changing and working with needles I felt

by having a larger air filter this would lean out the mixture and provide extra air

flow at the same time. With the use of a LM-1 Air fuel meter and the G-Tech

meter I tested the OEM, K&N RU-4410 and K&N E-2400 air filters.

 

   The OEM K&N Tapered Conical Air Filter has a height of 2" (51mm), Base

Outside Diameter of 5.875" (149mm) with a tapered Top Outside Diameter of

3.5" (89mm). The K&N RU-4410 is slightly larger than the OEM filter, but not by

much. The K&N E-2400 High Flow Air Filter is much larger with a height of

3.688" (94mm), a Base and Top outside diameter of 5.063" (129mm). This is

also the K&N replacement filter that fits the stock early MGB air box.

 

   When I installed the supercharger I did not need the spacer between the

carburetor and the air filter. With this extra area I was able to fit a SU Filter

Base used on the 1962-74 MGB air filter system that has a velocity stub stack

as part of it's design. Velocity stacks reduces turbulence, improves metering

accuracy, increases airflow by reducing restriction, while straightening and

speeding up air flow.

 

    To modify this base for my application I first filled in all the holes with Easy-

Weld and with some drilling & grinding made my own Velocity Stack to mount

the air filter assembly. Next I used a 90* 4" PVC pipe which has a 3.5" inside

diameter that fits perfectly to the 3.5" outer diameter of the Velocity Stack. I

cut the top off the pipe with a 45* angle to mount the K&N E-2400 High Flow

Air Filter. To mount the air filter and top cover I used Gorilla Glue that made a

very strong air tight seal. With a one screw ring clamp the complete air filter

assembly can be taken off, cleaned and installed very easily.

 

   The finished product is an air filter assembly that looks like it was made for

the supercharger and fits up to a velocity stack for mounting. It is the perfect

height to close the hood (bonnet) without hitting the air filter. The upward 90°

angle lifts the air filter further away from the hot exhaust pipes. The larger size

filter no longer has restricted air flow, it leaned out the mixture with the air/fuel

ratio I was looking for without changing needles, and picked up a little extra

torque & horsepower.

Custom K&N E-2400 Air Filter Assembly!

 

Reducing Engine Bay Temperatures or a Cold Air Intake!

   In theory denser air provides more horsepower. Now, for every 5.4°F or 3°C

decrease in temperature of air ingested by the engine is lowered, power output

is raised by 1 percent. The problem with the Supercharger is that the carburetor

and air filter is directly over the exhaust manifold and ingests all this exhaust

radiated heat. Moss R&D did try a cold air feed tube on their Supercharger test

vehicle and found not much difference in actual intake air temperature at speed.

The next step for them was to make a heat shield for the exhaust manifold and

this made a tremendous difference to intake temperature at idle and speed. If

the heat shield alone made such an improvement why not take it one more step

by reducing engine bay temperatures even further. That is exactly what I did to

provided denser air to the engine.

 

1st: My engine and cooling system works the way it should. I use a 180°F

thermostat/blanking sleeve with a steady 182° normal operating temperature.

It means the thermostat is barely open and is maintaining engine temperature.

Compared to an engine using a 195° thermostat and most likely with an engine

operating temperature above 195°, you can clearly see this increases engine

bay temperatures.

 

2nd: The exhaust manifold gives off a lot of radiant heat that increases engine

bay temperatures more than anything else. With a Peco header Jet Hot coated

this greatly reduced engine bay temperatures. It keeps the supercharger much

cooler and most importantly was the reduction of exhaust radiated heat around

the carburetor and air filter. Compared to a stock exhaust manifold the Jet Hot

Peco header outside temperature was reduced by 50% translating into a much

denser intake charge. (Stock Manifold 390°F - Jet Hot Peco Header 192°F)

 

3rd: To reduce the operating temperature of the Supercharger even more a heat

shield was installed. This made a big difference in keeping the Supercharger

cooler. The design of the heat shield also isolates the carburetor and air filter

from the exhaust radiated heat providing more denser air around the air filter.

 

   With the 3 changes made above I found with the reduction in engine bay

temperatures there was no need for a cold air intake. The biggest advantage is

the air being inhaled into the engine is denser, more fuel can be mixed with it

resulting in a more powerful fuel/air charge, it also aids in reducing the chances

of detonation.   

 

Carter  "P60504"  Fuel Pump!

   When it came to fuel supply I used a Carter P60504 In-Line 12v Electric Fuel

Pump. It is a Gerotor, self-priming, negative ground, positive displacement fuel

pump that I mounted in the same area as the OEM pump. It's small, has a filter

before the pump, very quiet, rated 2.5~4 psi maximum, and will keep the entire

fuel line to the carburetor pressurized to alleviate any potential vapor lock

problems. I have used this pump for 17 years and never had a problem. It works

great with the Supercharger. No Regulator Needed.

 

Carter P60504 Fuel Pump Kit!

 

P60504 Carter Fuel Pump!

Negative Ground!

Free Flow Rate: 30 gph

Maximum Pressure (psi): 4 psi

Inlet & Outlet Size: 5.16 inch

 

96 amp GM/Delco CS-130 Alternator!

   I replaced the old alternator with a newer GM/Delco Alternator. Simply bolt

on with no modifications needed. Instructions are included to show how easy it

is with only a two wire hook up. I ordered mine with a 4 rib pulley.

 96 amp GM/Delco CS-130 Alternator!

Test Results Table:
Maximum Alternator Output:	Amps	121
Maximum Output Power:	Watts	1632
Voltage Set Point:	Volts	14.7
Alternator Turn on Speed:	RPM	1674
Regulator Activation Speed:	RPM	0
Leakage Current:	mAmps	1.23
Ripple Current:	Amps	28
Tachometer Frequency:	Hz	251
Stator Voltage:	Volts	6.7
Output Current Table:
Output Current at 1600 rpm	Amps	46
Output Current at 1800 rpm	Amps	62
Output Current at 2000 rpm	Amps	74
Output Current at 2400 rpm	Amps	91
Output Current at 3500 rpm	Amps	110
Output Current at 5000 rpm	Amps	118
Output Current at 6000 rpm	Amps	121
Output Current at 0 rpm	Amps	0

 

High Torque Gear Reduction Starter!

   I replaced the old starter with a new 1.2 horsepower High Torque Gear

Reduction starter motor for all 1968-1980 MGB's. The mounting plate can also

turn around 180 degrees. Very easy to install with the instructions.

 High Torque Gear Reduction Starter!

 

High Boost Pulley!

    If you want more torque and horsepower you can change the original 2.75"

pulley and install the High Boost Pulley (Smaller 2.6" Pulley) that will increase

your boost from the standard 5-6 psi to 7-8 psi. This pulley is recommended for

use on engines that have a 8.0:1 compression ratio or cylinder heads that have

been flowed. Each pound of boost is worth approximately 4~5 HP.  If you have

a slight increase, no increase, or a drop in horsepower than most likely you

have reached your limits, maybe of flow restriction, or some other problems.

 

VDO Gauges!

   All my OEM gauges were replaced with eight (8) Vision Black gauges by VDO.

These gauges light up green or red. At night I liked the green as they were very

bright and readable. They also matched the OEM Hazard and Fan switches that

were green. Very easy to install, but I did have to grind the dash a little to get

the speedometer and tachometer to go in.

 

Here is the list of items I installed on my MGB:

 

Speedometer: 4" 120 mph Programmable Speedometer Vision Black. 

Note: This speedometer needs a speed sensor (Hall Effect Sensor). I sent the cable that came

with the Five Speed to Speedometer Services Company. They cut the cable to 18 inches and

installed the Hall Effect Sensor. The best feature with this gauge is that you can install any size

tire and reprogram the speedometer for the correct mph.

 

Tachometer: 4" 8,000 rpm Tachometer-Electric Vision Black

Note: This tachometer will work with Points or Pertronix, but you need to install a diode in line on

the signal lead.

Instructions: Purchase a Diode #1N4005 from a local electronics store such as Radio Shack or 

Circuit City. Cut both ends of the diode so each is approximately 3/4" long. Crimp 1/4" female spade

connector on the end of the diode with the silver band. Crimp butt-splice connector on the other

end of the diode. Crimp the opposite end of the butt-splice connector to the wire connected to the

ignition signal source. Connect 1/4" spade connector in #3 above the #4 terminal on the back of

the tachometer. Connect a ground (-) wire to terminal #3. Connect a switched 12-volt power to

terminal #2. Set switches for appropriate number of cylinders. Seems hard but very easy.

Special Note: This tachometer will work with a MSD-6A Ignition Control and "Does Not" need the

MSD tachometer adapter 8910. There also is "No" need for Diode #1N4005.

 

Fuel: 2 1/16" for 240-33 Ohm sender Fuel level Vision Black

Note: This fuel gauge will match the sending unit on the gas tank.

240 Ohm reading means tank is Empty and 33 Ohm reading tank is Full.

 

Oil: 2 1/16" Oil Pressure Gauge 100PSI Vision Black

Note: This oil gauge needs a 10-180 Ohm Sender

Sender Oil: Sender Oil 100 PSI 1/8-27NPT 10-180 Ohm

 

Water: 2 1/16" 250F Engine Temperature Electric Vision Black

Note: This water temperature gauge needs a 10-180 Sender. Fits into Block

Sender Water: Temperature Sender 250/120C 5/8-18 NF-3-209F+/-5

180 ohm reading means temperature is at 250 degrees

 

Clock: 2 1/16" Clock Vision Black

Boost: 2 1/16" Turbocharger Gauge Vision Black (Vacuum & Boost)

Voltmeter: 2 1/16" 16 Volts Voltmeter -12 volts Vision Black

 

Modern Fuse Block & Relays! 

   I installed a modern fuse block hoping this would be more reliable than that

of the OEM type. I was lucky to have a volt meter installed and it ended up

being very useful as I could see what was really going on within the electrical

system. The first thing I noticed is with the headlights, parking lights, radiator

fan, etc., full load, there was a noticeable voltage drop from 14.3 volts down to

12.5 volts. What really struck me as strange is when you have the turn signals

or hazard lights on the voltage needle would fluctuate back and forth along with

the voltage drop. This was not to my liking.

 

   What I did was install some relays. The low and high beams headlights each

had its own relay, all red wire circuits was on a relay and all green wire circuits

were on a relay. The starter solenoid already had its own relay. I than added a

separate fuse block with relay for the MSD ignition control, fuel pump, radiator

fan, and for the power mirrors and power windows.

 

   The results were startling with brighter headlights, parking lights, blinkers

and all gauges, louder horn and radio, radiator fan and everything else was way

much better than before. The main test was putting a full electrical load on the

car and than turn on the blinkers. To my surprise the volt meter read 14.3 volts

without any load and had only a small drop down to 14.1 volts with a full load

and especially without any needle fluctuation when the turn signals are on. This

in itself transformed my complete MGB's electrical system. 

   

 Modern Fuse Blocks and Relays!

 

Fiero Seats!

   I wanted sportier seats that were more comfortable and installed Fiero seats

with custom made Two-Tone Black & Tan Leather seat covers with black welts,

a Black leather strap was installed on the pull handles to lift the seats forward.

 

   Installation of the seats is pretty straight forward. I did have to change the

drivers seat rails to the passenger seat and the passenger seat rails to the

drivers seat. This was the only way to get the seats to move more freely. With

the seats exchanged the seat lifts faces towards the transmission tunnel. The

passenger seat moves more freely than the drivers side.

 

   When it comes to comfortable seats these are the ones. The Fiero seats have

a harder cushion compared to the OEM seats or Sufolk seats. These seats are

actually lower by approximately 2 inches which gives plenty of room getting in

and out of the MGB. They are also slimmer in depth which provides longer leg

room. The Fiero seats truly give you that feeling of being in a sports car.

 

   I also removed the interior door rails and installed the same Black Leather

as the seats to bring the front and rear of the interior together.

 

My MGB Fiero Seats are featured on Mr. Mikes Leather web-site:

 

www.mrmikes.com  or  www.mrmikes.com/mgraysamoa.htm

 

 

Custom 3rd Brake Light Assembly!

   I always wanted to install a 3rd brake light on my MGB but nothing seemed

to look good. With this Mohair convertible top I never use the Mohair top cover

because it looks good folded down. I started thinking why not install the 3rd

Brake Light on the convertible top.

 

   With some black Mohair material and a 3rd brake light I brought out the

sewing machine and after a couple attempts finally figured out a design that

made the 3rd brake light look as if it was part of the convertible top.

Custom Made 3rd Brake Light Sewn Into the Mohair Convertible Top!

 

MGB Body/Parts Weights!

1977 MGB Body/Parts!	Old	New		Old	New
Tires 4 x 35 lb/new 33 lb	140	132	Radiator	25	25
Spare Tire	35	----	Bonnet or Hood	24	24
Gas Tank	24	24	Windshield	25	25
Rear Axle	168	168	Front Fenders w/lights	58	58
Rear Springs 2 x 13lb	26	26	Doors 2 x 54 lbs	108	108
Rear Dampers 2 x 24lb/new telescopic 2-3lb	48	6	Battery	27	29
Front Axle	193	193	Luggage Rack	7	----
Front & Rear Sway Bars	10	10	Dashboard	12	12
Bumpers 2 x 45lb	90	90	Windshield Wiper Assembly	7	7
Seats 2 x 28/ Fiero Seats 23.5 x 2	56	47	Steering Wheel/column	16	16
Clutch & Brake Assembly w/booster	23	23	Radio/Speakers & Console	7	12
Engine Dry Weight	325	325	Heater Assembly	10	10
Air Pump with Plumbing	9	----	Carpet	10	10
Header & Carburetor Complete	18	----	Fans 2 x 3.5/ new Flex a Lite	7	2.5
Clutch/Flywheel assembly (22lbs for flywheel)	37	37	Boot Cover or Trunk Lid	20	20
Alternator / 96 Amp Delco	9	11	Fuel Pump	3	0.5
Starter / High Torque	20	15	Nuts & Bolts	5	5
Transmission w/OD  /  5 speed Ford T-9	112	86	Oil 15.25 pints Coolant 14 pints	21.5	21.5
Transmission rear mount	9	9	Mirrors / Miata Mirrors	1	3
Exhaust System with Catalytic Converter	14.5	10	Seat Belts	2	2
Drive Shaft	11	11	Top Frame	21	21
Wiring Harness/tail/marker lights	20	14	Convertible Top & Cover	10	10
Supercharger Complete Assembly w/Header	----	29.5	Hardtop Optional	60	----
Misc-Jack-Tools-Floor Mats, etc..	8	8
Total Parts Weight	1892	1696
Body weight w/o Parts*	450	450
Full Tank 13 US Gallons 73.84 lbs	74	74
Total Curbside/Kerbside Weight:	2416	2220
Weight Reduction:	----	196
MGB Hand book 1977-80 Curbside Weight -
Including Full Tank and All Options	2416

I lowered my MGB's weight -196 lbs to 2,220 lbs!

Specific gravity of gasoline is 42.5 lb/cubic foot

1 US gallon = 0.133680556 cubic feet

0.133680556 * 42.5 = 5.68 lbs x 13 US Gallon Tank 1977 MGB = 73.84lbs Full Tank

 

Supercharger 4 Rib Replacement Drive Belts!

Bando: 4PK1510 9/16"

Gates: K040595 14mm 1525mm

Dayco: 5040595

Goodyear: 4040595

 

Ride Height & Front Spoiler Ground Clearance!

   With your car on level ground, curbside weight, measure vertically from the

center point of each wheel hub to the bottom of chrome strip. Ride heights are

given only for reference as final ride height can vary as much a 1 inch.

 

Standard Spring Rates and Ride Heights:

Chrome Bumper 1962-1974½:  Front 348 lb/in~14½"    Rear 93 lb/in~14½

Rubber Bumper  1974½-1980:  Front 372 lb/in~16"    Rear 110 lb/in~16"-16½"

Minimum Ground Clearance 5 inches!

Note: Clausager states: For the start of the RB MGB (1974½) the V8 front crossmember which

raised the height by 0.5 inches was fitted to meet U.S. Bumper height requirements. In conjunction

with other modifications also introduced on the Rubber Bumper MGB the total increase in ride height

was in the order of 1½ inches (38mm).

 

Lowered Front and Rear Suspension!

   My MGB has OEM 5/8" Front Sway Bars and 11/16" Rear Sway Bars and were

left unchanged. For the rear suspension I installed 1" lowering blocks, Rear

Suspension Polyurethane Kit, Shorter rebound straps and telescopic shocks. For

the front suspension I first tried installing the Moss Red 480 lb/in lowering coil

springs, but this lowered the front way to much, 8.5" free length. I read that

the BHH-1077 GT 72-74 & V8 coil springs were rated at 480 lb/in and ordered a

set, made in the UK, and measured 9.1" free length (Moss Part# 264-390). They

were installed also using the Front Suspension Polyurethane Kit, with Shortened

Front Bump Stops, this resulted in a noticeable difference in improved handling,

and appearance.

 

New Ride Heights & Ground Clearance!

Front ST Spoiler and Front Cross Member: 6¼" ground clearance!

Exhaust Pipe lowest point: 5¼" ground clearance!

  Front Driver: 14¼"   ---   Front Passenger: 14¼"

  Rear Driver:  15¼"   ---   Rear Passenger: 15¼"  

Front Sway Bar: 5/8"  ---   Rear Sway Bar: 11/16"

Tire Size: 195/65/R15

  

My DIY Supercharger Cylinder Head!

    You may wonder how I came about performing my own DIY (Do It Yourself)

Supercharger cylinder head. I actually installed 3 different cylinder heads; a

stock CAM-1106 cylinder head with 1.56" intake valves, a Professional Port &

Polished 12H1326 cylinder head with 1.625" intake ~ 3 angle valves, and my

own "DIY" 12H4736 Port & Polished cylinder head with 1.56" intake ~ 3 angle

valves. I used a G-Tech Pro meter to measure torque/horsepower and 0-60 mph

times by comparing the results from the stock CAM-1106 cylinder head with the

Big Valve Ported 12H1326 cylinder head, changing camshaft timing, and with all

modifications mentioned in this website:

 

The stock CAM-1106 provided more low-end torque with a loss of high-end

horsepower, it made peak power at 4500 rpm. It is a good cylinder head for city

driving and cruising with decent high-end horsepower.

 

The 12H1326 fully ported big valve cylinder head naturally provided more high-

end horsepower, moved the power band higher, and had a very noticeable loss

of low-end torque and power. It made peak power at 5019 rpms. First gear was

very disappointing as it would not go over 15 mph and redlined very quickly.

Second gear, to a lesser degree was the same in the lower rpm range, less

torque and power, but once in the mid-rpm range it really comes alive. This is a

good cylinder if you like mid-high range rpms, high-end horsepower, mostly

freeway driving. In the lower rpm range, an important area to me, there was

simply no comparison to the stock cylinder head. I felt this cylinder head had a

loss of low rpm torque and power because of less air speed in the larger ports.

 

   When it comes to porting I would like to mention this: Any large port can

move a lot of air, but a "Smaller Port" moving just as much air will create a

flatter torque curve and be more effective with high velocity and great throttle

response. The right size ports are the ones that are not to big and not to small.

 

   These results really made me think about what I wanted in a cylinder head,

for my driving habits, and with the Supercharger. A Supercharger cylinder head

needs 2 other components that also need to be matched. First is the camshaft:

I planned on using the standard (88G303) cam profile with 1.56" inlet valves, 

and by not using the engine over 5000 rpm I really did not need larger valves,

and this would provide me with the most low and mid range torque and power

compared to other camshafts. Second was the ignition: I wanted 32° of advance

no matter what. Once you start retarding the ignition to reduce the chances of

detonation you start losing horsepower.

 

   I was now ready to perform a "Do It Yourself" porting with a 12H4736 cylinder

head that I felt was the best cylinder head because it had that little extra with

redesigned cooling passages that assisted in preventing overheating of the rear

cylinder. The larger coolant ports provided a greater service area to assist with

higher combustion temperatures and with the supercharger on boost this surely

is an added plus to the engine. For the valves: I maintained the 1.56" intake

valves, with the standard cam profile providing low to mid range torque and

power, adding 3 angle cuts/seats for better air flow and cooling of the valves.

By changing the seat angle from 45° to 30° produces dramatic improvement in

low lift flow. The exhaust valves being large enough remained at 1.34" only

adding 3 angle cuts and seats.

 

   With the Supercharger achieving more cylinder filling this also meant more

exhaust gases needed to get out. The first step was 3 angle exhaust valves and

seats. When it came to the exhaust ports, the guide boss is the next area

needing the most work. It is intrusive and has an adverse effect on flow in the

mid to upper lift ranges. Remember, the guide boss is needed to conduct heat

from the valve guide, which in turn is needed to conduct heat from the valve

stem. If the exhaust valve is allowed to run any hotter than it already does, the

problem of detonation will occur sooner than would otherwise be the case. Even

with Manganese-Bronze guides I took a different approach. Instead of leaving or

removing the exhaust guide boss completely I decided to simply reduce it's size

by tapering the boss around the guide and into the throat area making it into

an aerodynamic shape. The throat and port areas were cleaned up removing any

imperfections, blended, producing a smooth surface and finish.

 

   Inlet ports were cleaned up and blended, removing imperfections, port divide

sharpened at the split to aid swill, and than keeping the ports on the rough side

to decrease fuel condensation. Finally the combustion chambers were flattened

and smoothed to remove any sharp edges. I than checked chamber volume to

ensure they were all equal. 

 

   I was very surprised and impressed with the G-tech results. It was like having

both cylinder heads combined into one. Compared to the stock CAM-1106 there

was no loss at all to low-end torque, it increased. Compared to the 12H1326 Big

valve head there was no high-end horsepower loss, also increasing. As stated

above holds true: Any large port can move a lot of air, but the "Smaller Port"

moving just as much air will create a flatter torque curve and be more effective

with high velocity and great throttle response. This is exactly what I achieved.

Peak power remained at 5019 rpm's. I feel that this DIY cylinder head falls into

the category of not to much or not to little, and matched perfectly with all my

other engine modifications.

 

The Finished Restoration and Engine Rebuild!  

   I can proudly state all my goals were achieved with my restoration project

and engine rebuild with a Supercharger. Having a P&P 12H4736 cylinder head

with 3 angle valves & seats, 8.1:1 CR, High Boost Pulley, Supercharger Heat

Shield, Jet Hot Coated Peco Header, Peco Big Bore Free Flow Exhaust, Custom

Distributor Curve with 20° advance at idle and 32° of advance at 3000 rpm's,

Pertronix LU-143 Ignitor Electronic Ignition, MSD-6A Ignition Control, Custom

K&N Larger Air Filter Assembly, T-9 Ford 5 Speed Transmission, OEM 88G303

camshaft timed at 104* ATDC, Valve Clearances .012" hot Inlet - .015" hot

Exhaust, and overall reduction of engine bay temperatures, all complimented

each other with the supercharger. The best tuned engines are ones that have

careful planning and the correct combination of subtle modifications.

 

NOTE: My boost decreased from 6 psi to 5 psi. This was great news meaning the cylinder head

was flowing exceptionally well and essentially making the same horsepower with lower boost. This

meant that I could install the 2.6" High Boost Pulley and I did with boost immediately increasing to

7 psi with absolutely no hint of detonation and still using 87 octane fuel.

 

   The High Torque gear reduction starter with the MSD-6A ignition control starts

my MGB instantly with a smooth rock steady idle at 950 rpm's. Vacuum at idle

is steady at 20 in/hg, operating oil pressure at 60 psi and 30 psi at idle.

 

   The Moss Supercharger is set up with a 3¾ turns out for the idle mixture

screw. (Turning the Screw in Richens the mixture / Turning Out Leans the mixture) My setting

was 3¼ turns out resulting with a nice tan burn on the NGK6ES spark plugs. 

 

   Using a 180° thermostat with a blanking sleeve keeps my engine at 182° as

it's normal operating temperature. At idle (stop light/sign), going up a steep

hill, or on boost from the supercharger is when temperatures will rise to 190°

which is then controlled by a 14" 10 Blade Electric Cooling Fan with adjustable

thermostat that starts the fan and either maintains that temperature or drops it

back down to 182°. On the dash board is a safety manual fan switch that can

override the system, and on the radio console is a red light that lights up when

the cooling fan is working, or when the manual switch is turned on. 

 

   With engine operating temperature of 182°, a Jet Hot coated header, and

a supercharger heat shield all together helps in maintaining lower engine bay

temperatures. This provides a cooler intake charge and an increase in torque

and horsepower.

 

   The 5 speed Ford T-9 Transmission with 5th gear as an overdrive is a dream.

The Close Ratio gears worked extremely well with the Supercharger. I have a

shorter lever throw by shortened the gear shift handle by 1½".

 

   The 96 amp GM/Delco CS130 alternator is a strong unit and holds up great

with the supercharger and 4 rip serpentine belt. Also, by installing modern fuse

blocks and relays really transformed my MGB's electrical system.

 

    By removing the side marker lamps one would say it is illegal. If you look

closely at the rubber bumpers in the pictures below you will see that I installed

super-bright flush led lights in the bumpers. The front are yellow and blink with

the turn signals, they stay on as parking lights also. The rear are red and stay

on with the parking lights.

 

 Driving my Supercharged MGB!

   Driving my Supercharged MGB is a thrill every time I drive it. It is now a very

impressive MGB with excellent dependability and tractability for ease-of-driving.

Soon as you turn the key she starts without hesitation. The engine was built for

"My Driving Habits", mostly city driving and cruising. Low rpm torque is amazing

and instantaneous as soon as you press the gas pedal. It attains a reasonable

mid-range 72 hp @ 3000 rpm's ~ 96 hp @ 4000 rpm's with 126 ft-lbs of torque.

I have absolutely no problems staying with or ahead of most modern vehicles.

Street performance exceeded expectations with exceptional throttle response

and a broad, flat torque curve that pulls strong from idle through mid-range and

beyond. Torque in the lower rpm for acceleration and within the power band I

spend the majority of my time is what really makes my Supercharged MGB so

fun to drive with that "Seat-of-Your-Pants" feeling and driving pleasure.

 

Note: I used a G-Tech meter that measures torque and horsepower after all possible losses. It will

result in torque and horsepower values lower than on a traditional dyno. Lower figures are due to

aerodynamic losses incurred during driving, and increased rolling resistance of the tires on a real

road surface as opposed to a smooth dyno drum. Wheel-driven horsepower, by comparison, is a

measurement taken at the driven wheels of a vehicle on a dynamometer. The power measured by

the G-Tech is truly the amount of horsepower available to accelerate your vehicle on the road.  

 

How Fast is my Supercharged MGB !!!

 

It's not how fast my Supercharged MGB can go,

but how Quickly it can Go Fast!

 

Don't worry about RWHP, but enjoy the Torque

 that makes a Supercharged MGB fun to drive!

 

The average car today makes 0~60 mph in 8.4 seconds,

 with my Supercharged MGB in front of them.

 

If you have a Big Grin on your face after driving

 your Supercharged MGB, than you know it was worth it!

 

As long as You are Happy with the Performance

 of your Supercharged MGB, that is All that Matters!

 

Would Anything be done Differently!

   "No"!  I am more than "Completely Satisfied" with my Supercharged MGB. It

has taken 4 years of on and off playing around that resulted in many trial and

error changes, which I enjoyed doing, to finally reach that exact point where all

modifications came together perfectly and completely transforming my MGB to

what it is today. I totally enjoy each and every moment that I get behind the

wheel of my Supercharged MGB. All my Goals were accomplished giving me a

very Reliable, Drivable, and Dependable MGB!

 

Happy Motoring...

 

Hope you like the pictures!

 Tripod Halogen Lights! Special Tuning Front Spoiler!

Mini-Lite Style Alloy Wheels 15" x 5.5"  195/65R15 Tires!

Mohair Convertible Top with 3rd Brake Light!

3rd Brake Light On!

Mohair Top Folded Down!

Fiero Seats with MG Emblem and Black Leather Door Rails!

RV8  Leather 14" Steering Wheel with Brown MG logo!

All New VDO Gauges!  

Passenger Side Under Dash Liner with White Led Light!

Speaker in Kick Panel! Hidden Antenna!

Driver Side Under Dash Liner with White Led Light!

 Speaker in Side Kick Panel! Billet Pedal Covers!

Billet "Roadster" Door Sill Plates! Power Mirror Switch in Arm Console!

MG Logo Floor Mats / Power Windows!

Leather Shift Boot / Walnut & Chrome Shift Knob!

Fiero Seats with Inertia Seat belts! MG Logo Cargo Mat!

Miata Power Mirror!

Miata Power Mirror Folded inwards when Parked!

Rose Wood Trim Kit on Dash, Radio and Gear Shift Console!

Full  Look at the Interior!

Rear Speakers!

Rear Component Speakers! MG Tool Bag! Trunk Light!

Full Look at the Trunk!

Supercharged Engine Bay!

Cobalt Ignition Wire Set, Flame Thrower 2 Coil Epoxy .6 Ohms,

 96amp Delco Alternator, and High Torque Starter!

MSD-6A Ignition Control!

14" Inch Spal 10 Blade Electric Puller Fan!

Modern Fuse-Blocks and Relays!

Hall Effect Sensor for the VDO Speedometer!

Front Quarter Panel & Bumper with Amber Led Light in Bumper!

Rear Quarter Panel & Bumper! Red Led Lights in Bumper!

Peco Muffler with High Flow Louvered Stainless Steel Tip!

Red Led Light with Parking Lights On!

Rounded Tail Light Assembly!

Rounded Quarter Panel with no more Seams and Beads!

MG Logo with SC "Supercharged" Logo!

 Which Sports Car would you Drive!

 

I hope this Website can help you with your MGB!

Best Regards,

Ray A. Wyberski

 

If you would like to leave a Comment or Ask a Question please click on:

 http://www.treasureislandjewelers.com/contact.htm

 

If you are a member of the MG Experience Forum

 Please Vote for my MGB as one of your Favorite MGB's:

 

 http://www.mgexperience.net/registry/

 

Remarks From Around the World:

Tommy Baker, Tokyo Japan, Hello, Great SC MGB! I am embarking on the SC quest with my MGA.  I am very curious about the distributor setup and wondered if you had any thoughts about that type of distributor in an A? Any thoughts of the supercharger itself?  Was it worth it? Keep up the great work!

Allen Bachelder, Michigan, USA, Just saw your site linked from the BBS thread on speaker placement. Beautiful car!!! Congratulations on a superb, thoughtful, job.

David Germain, USA, Wow!  You have created what would have happened if Rolls Royce had bought MG instead of British Leyland.

Ralph Bell, Independence, CA, USA,  What an inspiration! I just bought a 1979 MGB and have been keeping a list of all the things I want/need to fix. Your project has inspired me to add several things. Thanks again for providing me with so many ideas. I have made your site a favorite that I will refer to often in the future, I'm sure. Ralph

Russ Geraghty, Queensland, Australia,   Simply an amazing job. This is a favorite site that I visit time and time again. Every time I read about your project I pick up something new that I missed last time. Congratulations on turning out such a complete project. It surely has given many readers inspiration and ideas in their own projects. Well done. Russ

Jan Vermeer, The Netherlands, Simply the best MGB on the planet. Compliments, great job.

Greg Smela, Western USA  Very nice Ray. I've been curious to see the finished product after following your threads. Your MG site looks great. The car is absolutely gorgeous and inspires me to get mine into such good shape! How much of a workout have you given the supercharger? Greg

John English, Georgia, USA  Beautiful Ray! The best part is the fact it was a family project! I can tell you are very proud of the car, but your love for the family comes through loud and clear on your web site. You seem to have your priorities correct! Congratulations!! John

John, RI, USA  Let's see, a supercharged beauty of an MGB Roadster, a lovely Pacific island, boy, do you have it made. John

Bill Young, Kansas City, MO USA  Ray, a beautiful job. Very tasteful modifications. Truly a jewel to pass on to your family. Bill

D M Hill, Victoria, Australia  Ray. The car looks great. I can see now why you pay so much attention to detail and want everything just right. Goodonya. Denis

Chris Edwards, Dallas Texas, USA  Ray, beautiful job on your 77, every little detail! Chris

Vem myers, Nevada, USA  Hey Ray- First, it continues to be a pleasure surfing your site and eyeballing your truly gorgeous MGB. Ray-Dyno? Estimate? Measured CR? 0-60? Just nosey as hell. Pretty ride, very clean work! Have the power accessories-doors, windows- been to your liking. Vic

JC Nelson, California, USA  That is a fantastic car - great job.

Don, Florida, USA  What a wonderful job you have done on your 1977 MGB. It is the cleanest best rebuild I have ever seen and I have been around MGB's since 1975. I send to you best wishes and congratulations from Florida. Don

Robert Browning, Georgia, USA  Ray. the more I look at your car and what you accomplished, the more envious I get. Also, I have really decided that I do not like you because you have shown me a lot of ways that I can spend a lot of money, which I probably should not do -but will anyway. I really appreciate the additional information you added about exactly what you did to the car and the information about your cam and distributor - especially the chart. I really like the gauges and dash layout on your car with that steering wheel. It looks really good. I have marked this as one of my favorite places!! Great job. Robert

D F Sexton, Tennessee, USA  Ray, it's a beautiful car and a project to be proud of. Thanks for sharing! Dennis

Patrick Keenan, New York, USA  Ray; Very nice job! I am working the electrics on my 77 and would be interested in knowing which VDO gauges you went with for the Speedo & Tachometer. Thanks for taking time to post your project.

Jeff Schlemmer, Minnesota, USA  What a beautiful car! Only those of us who attempted this really know the passion, hours, and skinned knuckles that go into a car like that. Thanks for posting. your an inspiration! Jeff

Barry Parkinson, Lakeport , CA  Hear Hear! I went with VDO, on my '67. It is a delight to have gauges that work! The only problem with the speedometer particularly is over damped. You can't use the indicated speed to time 0-60 mph acceleration, for instance, as you are probably doing 65 by the time the needle reaches 60. Summit Racing, stocks the VDO gauges. I converted to a 280z 5 speed Transmission. The electronic sender from a 300zx fits the older transmission and powers the VDO speedometer nicely. Calibration and re-calibration is a very simple task if you have a measured mile available. Barry

Iain Moone, 1966mgbGT  Nice MGB. I run a '66 GT myself, it's nice to see someone else out there takes as much pride in their MG as I do. Iain

Roger Emburey, Lotus 7  Hi Ray, what a great site and a great car! I'm currently building Lotus 7 replica and I'm using the Sierra Type 9 gearbox, like you. I wonder if you could find the time to let me know where you source the Hall Effect Sender for the Type 9. It would be really helpful for me. Thanks again for a great site. Regards, Roger

Andrew, Australia  Ray, you have put so much thought into this car. Thanks for all the technical information. Your a bit of a thinker obviously!! Great effort and high quality finish. I really dig the interior. My father has recently purchased an MGB and he is currently doing the interior. He kept his as a classic standard type. For me, the performance kick of your car is great. A job worth doing, is worth doing well. Thanks mate. Best Regards, Andrew

Michael Beswick, Hertfordshire, United Kingdom  Ray, Fantastic, thanks for sharing it. I read it today, here in the UK where the weather has turned damp -almost time to put the B away for the winter...Your pictures remind me of the summer - with the howl of the s/c, gulp of the induction... and a big silly grin! Michael

Dwight Stagner, 1973 MGB, Atlanta GA, USA  Great MGB! I'm just starting a long restore project on a '73 roadster...you've given me some great ideas! DS

PR Peterson, Washington, USA 1973 MgbGt  Yep, Talked to Bob Ford a couple hours ago. I neglected to mention earlier, that's a first rate web site and an awesome looking car. It must be a pleasure to drive. Thanks for sharing your expertise. Cheers! Paul.

Steve Petoskey, Michigan, USA  Ray, Beautiful car!

Ron Hatch, Canton Mass, USA  Just read your incredible MGB restoration. I have a 1970 MGB I bought new in 70. Wondered where you got the rosewood dash kit. Am planning to bring mine into the 21st century. Not as much as you've done. I'm 73 and it looks like you spent a lot of time on yours. She looks fantastic! Came very close to working in Samoa at the hospital there back in the 70's. Thanks for the dash wood information. I wish you many happy safe miles in your incredibly gorgeous restoration. Ron

David Plantz, West Virginia, USA  Great-looking B, Ray. I've looked at your web-site. Quite impressive. Dave

Jim, USA  Beautiful job. I wondered where you got the interior kit form and what color is is? Is the carpeting wool or nylon? Thanks, Jim.

Ray, Fort Bragg, California,  USA  Your '77 is quite a labor of love and it shows. Ray

Jack Lindler, Greensville, South Carolina USA  Ray, (understatement of the year), that's one nice MG. Where did your find the single-row fuse block with terminals? Jack

Drew Maddock, Pasadena, California, USA  I also agree with Rick that Ray's "Samoan" MGB with all it's improvements is a masterpiece. Drew

R Stevens, California, USA  Ray, I've viewed your site before -specifically for the info you provided on the T9 conversion. My comment is this: Your engine bay shows us how it should be done. You did an absolutely beautiful job in there. Results like you've achieved are the reason these little cars will never die. IMHO. Rick

Carl W. French, Alfred, Maine, USA  I think he is a member here actually. Nice car. Carl

Scott Wheatley, Ladner, British Columbia, Canada  Very nice car. Well done modifications that don't lose the true essence of a B. Scott

Dan DiBiase, New Jersey, USA  Wow, the Samoan car is pretty nice...  Dan

Jim Carley, Kittanning, Pennsylvania, USA  Ray. Sweet B and nice color. How did you get the bumpers looking so nice? Jim

Randall Ashcraft  Just have to say your MGB is one of the neatest cars I have seen. I have been around MG's along time but never seen one given this much attention to detail! Thanks Randall

Bob Bretcher, USA  Ray: I'd like to thank you directly for your more-than comprehensive response to my MG speaker inquiry! And, congratulations on that sweet ride of yours. Holey Moley! I don't think I've ever seen a B so expertly and tastefully restored/upgraded. I love the color too. My  stereo project will probably commence in a few months, as it's now 18 degrees F and snowing here in PA, and my B is safely tucked under her cover, awaiting spring. Anyway, thanks again. Best regards, Bob Bretcher

Scott  Ray, Wow! your "B" is inspiring. I have owned my '69 for about 10 years and have decided to embark on the same type renovation. I was wondering about taking off the chrome, welding the seams, etc. Your article was great and inspires me to go for it. Thanks for the time you put into the story. It is greatly appreciated! Best...Scott

Roger T, Australia  Let me be among the first to say congratulations on your restoration. Your enthusiasm shows in your post and I wish you many happy years with your car. Well done-Roger

Les Bengtson, Arizona, USA  Ray. Congratulations. I believe, in the past, you had a web site dedicated to your MGB project. Could you be so kind as to post the link? I remember looking at what you had done, while the work was in progress, and being impressed. Thus, the finished product would be of interest to me, and I suspect, many others. Glad you got the car "finished". Now, what else are you considering? Les

Bill Young, Kansas City, MO USA  Ray, an outstanding car. The modifications are subtle, yet very effective. I especially like the LED side lights mounted in the bumpers. Cleans up the car while retaining the safety feature. You have something which you and your family can rightfully be proud to have built. Bill

Iain MacKintosh, Highland, United Kingdom  Well done Ray, this is one very nice MGB that I could certainly live with. It seems that the changes you made are quite subtle and I don't think detract too much from the original look although some may not agree. I've seen the seems and beadings removed and rounded before whilst you have done it very well. The interior of your car is beautiful and a credit to you. I also like the mechanical specifications and am particularly impressed with the engine modifications which must make for a very tractable car. Look after it. Iain

Bud  Ray -beautiful job!!! Your modifications are all in good taste. Bud

David Steverson, Georgia, USA  Nice one Ray, very clean! I'm doing something similar to my '72, smoothed the seams and removed the chrome side molding. I hand-built some metal Sebring valances to eliminate the bumpers, removed the stock front parking lights and have '65 Mustang parking lights mounted in the valance. I've painted the car Tulip Black and have a gray interior kit from Prestige Auto. Dave

Luigi, Miami Fl, USA  Great car, Ray. Nice job. Congratulations. Luigi

Bill Boorse, Pennsylvania, USA  Ray, That's a beautiful looking B. Your attention to detail is really nice. the modifications you've made are very tasteful and make the car look like a much newer model. Cute little girl. I'll bet she really likes riding around in "her car". Bill

M Rae, United Kingdom  What a beautiful car, you must be proud of. If my three-year old son sees this he will kick my butt, as "his" car is a long way off this quality. (and guess will always be) Great stuff, lovely to see. Mick

Paul Hanley, Maryland, USA  Absolutely stunning! Very tastefully done. Paul

Rick Ingram, Central Illinois, USA  Ray,...very nice job! And...a very informative website! Rick

R J Collier, Lancashire, United Kingdom  Ray. No objections to your modifications at all. The removal of the stainless strip and addition of alloy wheels make the MGB's design look up to date, a credit to the original ageless design of the car that was produced for 18 years! I have a '64 car and would not change anything as I always wanted an early original car, but your car and website is a credit to you! Cheers Robert.

Larry Hallenger, San Diego, California, USA  Ray. Wonderful Job! The one thing I don't understand is the antenna mounting. Using an amplified antenna sounds like a good idea. Only where is the antenna mounted? Thanks Larry

Simon Jansen, Auckland, New Zealand It looks great! I quite like the look of not having the strips down the side and I might look at doing that on my own.  I like what you did with the fuses.  And it looks so clean it inspires me to try and achieve similar results with my car when I get that far. And I'm very jealous of the supercharger! Very nice looking car! Simon

Tom, Florida, USA  One fantastic looking car! I love the color, looks very rich. Great job. Tom

Bruce Cunha, Wisconsin, USA  Ray. An exceptional updating of the B. Very nice but still keeping the MG look. Congratulations on the finished job. Bruce

Willem van der Veer, Netherlands  Ray, I'm very impressed about this car and like it very much. Even if I am a purist at heart. I think your modifications work very well. It's obvious that a lot of thinking went into it with quality in mind. An intelligent conversion I'd say. If you would give the car to me (...) the only thing I would consider is the gear shift knob. I'd match it to the grain of the dashboard or fit a leather one. Willem

Carl Floyd, Tennessee, USA  Great Job, Ray!

Henry, Mainland, USA  Ray, I don't want to rain on your parade but I think you made a huge mistake with your car. As a matter of fact it's so bad I am willing to take it off your hands just to save you further embarrassment. Just crate it up and ship it to me, that way you will be able to walk with your head held high knowing that I must now suffer with it. Just to be a sport I'll offer to pay half the shipping fees because that's the kind of guy I am. LOL, nice job, great car! Henry

Bob Muenchausen, Idaho, USA  Beautiful car, beautiful job done, and a very pretty daughter, too. Welcome to the club!! Bob

Bill Spohn, British Columbia, Canada  Very clean job. You must be pleased! And nice to get to the end of a long restoration, isn't it. Bill

Robert Gloyd, Colorado, USA  Ray. I too am normally a purist but I think your car is just stunning! I love the color, I love and respect the thought and care that went into the modifications and want to offer my "Well Done' to the chorus! I am not a fan of the wood dash look, but I do feel that it works on your car and think the wood door caps will tie it in great. I am glad you kept the 'challenge' of a rubber bumper car. I feel that these models are too much maligned today. I can remember making fun of the "rubber baby buggy bumpers" when the came out (I owned a 71 back then), but my 78 (before it burned up) was my favorite driver and on of my all time favorite cars that I ever owned. Great job! Enjoy your car, you deserve it. Robert

Allen Bachelder, Virigina, USA  Ray, That's a beautiful and tasteful job. And your website is very informative regarding the technical. I like your thinking vis a vis making your RB car an outstanding example of what it is rather than tying to make something else out of it. Certainly, for the cost you've incurred, you could have bought a chrome bumper car if you wanted one.

I've seen lots of MGB's with the sill seams filled, and usually this is a symptom of shoddy rust repair. In fact, that's one sign I'm always looking for in examining a possible purchase. So...it takes a little "getting-used-to" in order to appreciate your filled sills strictly on aesthetic grounds. But once I accept that, I appreciate your finishing a car that perhaps left the factory slightly unfinished ( the same goes for the beading on the tops of the wings) in the name of economy. You've merely done what the factory would have done had this been a high-dollar car. And you achieved a beautiful result. Having said that, I'm aware that there is normally a little flex between these panels and I'm wondering if these filled seams might ever crack. I hope not.

Whether one likes or dislikes the RB MGB's, we have to admit these cars have not reached the market values attributed to the early cars. Relative in demand, they are still plentiful, although, as you mention, they represent just five of the 18 years of MGB production. Nevertheless, when supply is readily available, our stewardship duties are not so great. There are loads of MG enthusiasts out there - modifying their cars to personal taste, and I think the neat part of the MG hobby is that most of us -even the purist - will applaud tasteful, beautifully executed modifications and performance upgrades that help retain these cars' appeal in the age of 200 hp econo-boxes. I will be a purist when I restore my 1950 YT, but I was not when I did my '73 GT.

You are to be congratulated on an extremely practical, tasteful, and, yes, conservative treatment of this car. I hope to see it at a show someday. "Bet it goes like the stink too! Allen

Bill Taylor, Seattle, WA, USA  Beautiful job Ray.

Scott Wooley, Colorado, USA  Ray, Your car looks awesome. I've long been considering welding in the seams in my rocker panel since I never did like the factory look. Especially now that I've stripped down after full sill replacements. Seeing your car convince me...I'm going for it. I'm cutting off those jacking points too. I don't know what I was thinking when I welded new one in! I don't have the original jack for starters! Scott

Werner, Lynchburg, VA USA  Ray, What a beautiful car! As you see I have a 77RB also that is waiting for a ground up restoration. I was planning on removing the seams as well. I even cut a rear wing from a wrecked "B" to practice on it. I do have a Rover V8 installed with a 5-speed. Will post pictures from the rebuild. Werner

Mark B, Austin, TX, USA  Congratulations Ray! That's quite impressive. It's quite nice to see MG's receive recognition, and also it's a tribute to your excellent preparation of the car. Mark

Greg Bowman, Tennessee, USA  Congratulation. I've admired that car on your website, which is a great source of information. Greg

LuvMyMg., Durham, NC, USA  Beautiful car Ray, Congratulations!

Ken Harris, Burlington, Ontario, Canada  WOW! Ray that is awesome. Congratulation. Your B is a very worthy winner of the title. It is absolutely beautiful. Ken

George Champion, Yuma, Arizona, USA  You've made us proud. George

Jeremiah Randolph, Missouri, USA  Ray I'm a purist at heart if one feels the need to make modifications to there MG, I must say you have set the bar very high for others to try to achieve and from what I have read and seen your car is a CLASS ACT and very nicely done..... Congratulations and very well deserved recognitions. Jeremiah

Dave Braun, Minnesota, USA  Ray, I've looked at your site in the past and have enjoyed seeing your workmanship and your dedication to engineering the car you want. Congratulation and thank you for sharing your efforts and your success! Dave

M.A. Barrera, California, USA  This car is stunning in every detail! Congratulations.

Geoff King, Scotland  Ray, A superb car and congratulation on being Overall Auto Show Winner, your excellent work is rewarded. The 14" four spoke steering wheel is exactly what I have been looking for, does anyone know the manufacturer and or supplier? Geoff

Rune Helgeland, Norway  A great conversation and thanks for the tips. Regards a new MGB Roadster owner in Norway. Earliger Volvo Motor Tuner. Interesting with superchargers.

Carlos, Franklin TN, USA  Beautiful Car. Very Interesting!

Roger Tanner, Lompoc CA, USA  Your MGB is beautiful.

Peter Roger, Your superb article on the 1977 Supercharged MGB has inspired me to do the same. Would you mind telling me how you mated the VDO hall effect sender to the gearbox? Your help will be very welcome and I hope that you will continue to enjoy your lovely MGB for a long time to come. King regards, Peter

Mike White, I would love to have a picture of your car for my files, thanks.

Bud Kravchuck, Fabulous looking MG!!!! I've saved your site to my favorites!!!

Ronan, Ray, Amazing - on two levels: 1. The attention to detail and 2. You made a rubber bumper B look good. No1 spot highly deserved.

George Cooper, Your MGB is fabulous and certainly a showcase automobile. Great job, with all of the right touches.

Mark, Great restoration project, indeed a lot of thought have gone into this one.

Jim Roberts, Beautiful Car!!!

Scott Apple, I just found your site. Wonderful car! Back in high school (a thousand years ago), a friend and I used to "borrow" his Mom's 79 MGB when she wasn't home. We loved it and still reminisce fondly about it. Your really paid close attention to the details. Very well executed. Scott